我們之所以能實現永續成長,主要原因無疑是我們在研究與創新上的積極動能, 這也正是我們企業策略的核心所在。我們在產品品質與安全上絕不妥協,這是我們對美妝專業人士和消費者始終堅持的根本承諾。我們的創新來自對數千種原料的持續調整。我們每年導入許多原料,並在此同時決定停用某些原料。在我們的創新動能中,我們認為必須考量社會疑慮及對特定成分或成分族群已查知的意外風險。為了提升產品效能並持續改善產品安全性,我們的創新程序自然會將這些因素納入考量

我們在許多年前就成立了全球科學與社會監控部門,協助我們評估產品中所用特定成分,或成分族群所產生各種微弱徵象的強度與相關性。依據這些評估結果,並運用我們創新動能中的預測原則,我們就能正確決定是否要在產品中停用某些成分,或藉由降低濃度或侷限於特定產品類別中的使用以限制其用量;例如,雖然現行國際規範並不禁止使用鄰苯二甲酸二乙酯或三氯沙,但我們決定停用鄰苯二甲酸二乙酯或三氯沙,以降低染髮產品中所用鄰苯二胺的濃度,全面改用短鏈對羥基苯甲酸酯(乙基及甲基對羥基苯甲酸酯)。我們就是如此在責任創新程序中落實先進變革,藉此持續提升我們產品的品質、效能與安全性。

同時,為了選擇出最恰當的新成分,我們特別設計了不使用實驗室動物的預測性測試平台,協助我們確認應加以預防的生物警訊,例如排除可能影響特定荷爾蒙受體(內分泌干擾素)的新原料。這個平台的體外實驗研究材料主要是細胞受體、細胞培養物、重建組織或是如魚卵等活有機體;我們也使用以數學方法為依據的電腦測試及毒物學專家系統。透過有效的篩選,我們在選擇成分或成分族群並評定整體安全性時,就能將社會關注焦點及如內分泌調變等查知突現風險納入考量。

依據我們的預測政策,我們針對配方的微生物防範制訂了前瞻性策略,確保合成的新防腐劑具有絕對的安全性,並研究產品或其包裝系統所含特定物質(即使僅為極微量)對水生生態系統的影響。

因此我們的創新動能中採用的基礎預測原則,是務求在安全評定中絕不遺漏任何風險,包括尚未獲得科學實證的風險或僅為社會所關注的風險,藉此確保消費者能放心使用我們的產品。

 

One of the uncontested drivers of our sustainable growth consists in the dynamics of our Research and Innovation which have always been at the core of our corporate strategy. We never compromise on the quality and safety of our products and this remains a fundamental commitment to beauty-care professionals and consumers. The innovation dynamic is based on a large portfolio of several thousand raw materials which is subject to constant adjustments. Each year, we introduce numerous raw materials while deciding, at the same time, to no longer use a certain number of others. Within our innovation dynamics we consider that it is necessary to take into account societal concerns and perceived emergent risks with respect to certain ingredients or groups of ingredients. This is very naturally incorporated in our innovation process in order to enhance the performance of our products and continuously improve their safety.

Many years ago, we established worldwide scientific and societal monitoring, which enables us to evaluate the intensity and pertinence of numerous weak signals relating to certain ingredients or groups of ingredients used in our products. On the basis of those evaluations, pursuant to application of the principle of anticipation in our innovation dynamics, we are able to take the decision to no longer use an ingredient in our products or to restrict use by reducing its concentration or restricting an ingredient to particular product categories. For example, we took the decision to discontinue using diethyl phthalate or triclosan, to reduce the concentrations for use of phenylenediamine in our hair-color products and to prefer exclusive use of short-chain parabens (ethyl and methyl parabens) although current international regulations enable their use. Such progressive changes incorporated in our responsible innovation process enable continuous enhancement of the quality, performance and safety of our products.

In parallel, for the selection of new ingredients, we have set up a considerable platform of predictive tests, which do not employ laboratory animals, in order to identify the biological alerts that we wish to prevent. Examples include not selecting new raw materials that have the ability to interact with certain hormone receptors (endocrine disruptors). The platform consists of in vitro studies conducted on cell receptors, cell cultures, reconstructed tissues and even live organisms such as fish eggs. We also use in silico tests based on mathematical models and toxicological expert systems. Thanks to this effective screening, the societal preoccupations and perceived emergent risks such as endocrine modulation are taken into account in the selection of our ingredients or groups of ingredients and in the overall assessment of their safety.

In the context of our policy of anticipation, we have developed proactive strategies in the field of microbiological protection of formulae consisting in synthesizing new preservatives endowed with an irreproachable safety profile and studied the impact of certain substances contained in our products or their packaging systems, sometimes only as traces, on aquatic ecosystems.

Our innovation dynamics thus incorporates the fundamental principle of anticipation in which no risk, that is not yet scientifically proven or is only perceived by society, is neglected in the safety assessment. This ensures that our consumers can use our products with every confidence.